Bangka Snakehead
Channa bankanensis
(Bleeker, 1853)
What are they and how big do they get?
Channa bankanensis is a tropical species of snakehead belonging to the genus Channa. It is an attractive snakehead that naturally occurs in both Indonesia and Malaysia.
There are 2 forms of Bangka Snakehead, a smaller form and a larger form. The smaller form normally attains a size of around 6" (15cm), and the larger form normally attains a size of around 12" (30cm). It is the smaller form that is most likely to be seen on sale.
What temperature can they be kept at?
Bangka snakeheads do well when being maintained within a temperature a range of around 24-28c.
How many can be kept together?
A single specimen, a pair or a group (with caution).
Bangka snakeheads may cohabitate as a group, but things can soon escalate, especially if/when a pair forms. In the event of a pair forming, the rest of the group will need separating from the pair.
If you're planning to establish a pair from a group of juveniles, a group of 6 is often a good starting point. As above, in the event of a pair forming, any fish outside of the pair will need to be separated.
Please note: Even bonded pairs may fall out, and we refer to this as a divorce. If this happens (and unpredictably, it does from time to time) be prepared to intervene.
Water parameters?
This is where the demanding part comes in!
Bangka snakeheads are acidophiles, that naturally experience pH extremes of less than pH3. They come from soft blackwater environments that are naturally highly acidic, and this must be considered for life in captivity. It can be a challenge to achieve these levels within captivity, but it is possible.
pH - 2.8-3.8
dH - up to 10 degrees.
To achieve such levels, the use of a pH pen and acid can be used - please ask a member of staff for further details.
Captive snakeheads have shown to tolerate a wider range of conditions, but to avoid health issues and complications, it is best to try and replicate their natural parameters.
What do they eat in captivity and how often should they be fed?
For the most part, snakeheads can be weaned onto many foods, but there are 3 foods in particular that have proved to be a successful diet for maintaining, breeding and raising snakeheads captivity, they are:
Dried foods - Crushed flake may be fed to fry, pellets (such as Hikari cichlid gold) can be fed to juveniles and adults, increasing the pellet size in accordance with the fish's size.
Worms - Dendrobaena / Earthworms are a delicious treat. They can be purchased from pet shops or angling supply shops, or they can be harvested from the garden, providing that there hasn't been any insecticides or pesticides used.
Insects - Crickets and Locusts etc. Just like the worms, they are also a delicious treat. These can be purchased from many pet shops. Insects are a fantastic food, with the added bonus that they can be gut-loaded prior to feeding them to our snakeheads. To gut-load them, simply ensure that the insects have been fed some nutritious greens before using them as a food item.
Feeding several times a week often works well, allowing time between feeds for digestion and the stomach to flatten.
It is important to note that snakeheads are gluttonous, making them prone to obesity. Monitor their weight, and if they appear to be carrying excess weight, cut their feeding back until they return to a healthy state.
Which tankmates are recommended?
None. We do not recommend any tankmates.
Given their demanding care requirements and unpredictable nature, a species-specific aquarium is by far the most sensible and safest approach.
The aquarium?
The aquarium should be spacious and enriching.
Wood and rocks can be used, and arranged in such a way to provide areas of refuge and rest.
Chunks of bogwood, twigs, leaves, alder cones, and other seed pods can be used to assist with creating blackwater conditions.
We'd normally encourage plants in an aquarium that contains snakeheads, but given the highly acidic environment needed for Bangka snakeheads, real plants are likely to 'melt'. For this species, artificial plants may be a sensible choice.
Just like Harry Houdini, snakeheads can be masters of escape. Therefore, it is imperative that the aquarium is secure to prevent escape. A tight-fitting lid is a must, and possibly weighed down with a vase or similar for good measure!
Snakeheads are obligate air-breathers, meaning that they must surface for air otherwise they'll drown. Be sure to leave a sufficient gap between the lid and the surface of the water.
Will they breed in captivity?
It is possible, although reports are far fewer when compared to other species of snakeheads that have been bred in captivity.
Other notes
In the event of finding an escaped snakehead (often sporting dog hairs and cobwebs), our initial reaction is to panic and throw the snakehead straight back into the main aquarium. This can prove to be fatal!
We often don't know how long the snakehead has been out of the water for, and if it is exhausted, it may be too weak to surface for air and will drown.
An escaped snakehead can be placed into a bucket containing just enough aquarium water to cover its back. This way, the snakehead can easily breathe from the surface and have time to rest and recover. When sufficiently rested, the fish can be placed back into the main aquarium. An energetic snakehead that is thrashing around is a good sign that it is rested and ready!
Conclusion
If you can cater to their strict water demands and are a fan of blackwater aquariums, Bangka snakeheads might be just what you're looking for!