A snakehead worthy of any Channa collection!

Rainbow snakehead, close up of head.

Rainbow Snakehead

Channa bleheri

(Vierke, 1991)

What are they and how big do they get?

The rainbow snakehead is a stunning dwarf species of snakehead that is endemic to the Brahmaputra river basin, north-eastern India. It typically attains a size of around 6-7" (15-17.5cm).

What temperature can they be kept at?

This is not a tropical species, it is a sub-tropical species that requires seasonal variation for health, longevity and breeding purposes. When maintained at a constant temperature they're susceptible to health issues and a reduced lifespan - this must be avoided.

In many cases, seasonal variation can be applied by simply running their aquarium without a heater. This will allow the water temperature to drop during autumn and winter, and then rise again in spring and summer. A wintering temperature of around 10-12c and a summer temperature in the mid 20s is ideal!

Water parameters?

Rainbow snakeheads are hardy fish that tolerate a wide range of conditions and parameters.

pH - 6.0-8.0

dH - up to 20 degrees. 

What do they eat in captivity and how often should they be fed?

For the most part, snakeheads can be weaned onto many foods, but there are 3 foods in particular that have proved to be a successful diet for maintaining, breeding and raising this species in captivity, they are:

Dried foods - Crushed flake may be fed to fry, pellets (such as Hikari cichlid gold) can be fed to juveniles and adults, increasing the pellet size in accordance with the fish's size.

Worms - Dendrobaena / Earthworms are a delicious treat. They can be purchased from pet shops or angling supply shops, or they can be harvested from the garden, providing that there hasn't been any insecticides or pesticides used.

Insects - Crickets and Locusts etc. Just like the worms, they are also a delicious treat. These can be purchased from many pet shops. Insects are a fantastic food, with the added bonus that they can be gut-loaded prior to feeding them to our snakeheads. To gut-load them, simply ensure that the insects have been fed some nutritious greens before using them as a food item. 

The frequency of feeding is dependent on the time of year. During cooler months their feeding should be cut right back, and during warmer months their feeding should be more frequent.

It is important to note that snakeheads are gluttonous, making them prone to obesity. Monitor their weight, and if they appear to be carrying excess weight, cut their feeding back until they return to a healthy state.

Which tankmates are recommended?

None. We do not recommend any tankmates. 

Given their care requirements and unpredictable nature, a species-specific aquarium is by far the most sensible and safest approach.

The aquarium?

The aquarium should be spacious and enriching.

Wood and rocks can be used, and arranged in such a way to provide areas of refuge and rest. The aquarium can be generously planted, although rainbow snakeheads are known to dig and may uproot plants.

Floating plants are great in an aquarium containing snakeheads, as they provide shelter, help to diffuse bright lighting, and go some way towards restraining a particularly jumpy snakehead.

On the subject of jumping, snakeheads can be masters of escape. Therefore, it is imperative that the aquarium is secure to prevent escape. A tight-fitting lid is a must, and possibly weighed down with a vase or similar for good measure!

Snakeheads are obligate air-breathers, meaning that they must surface for air otherwise they'll drown. Be sure to leave a sufficient gap between the lid and the surface of the water.  

Will they breed in captivity?

Yes, and this is a joyous and fulfilling occasion for the fishkeeper. The sight of baby snakeheads is magical!

To be in with a chance of breeding rainbow snakeheads, they need to be conditioned. If they haven't been wintered, they will not breed in spring. In late winter through spring the daylight hours increase as does the temperature. This is when rainbow snakeheads will be looking to breed. 

During pairing, there may be squabbles, bite marks, torn fins and chasing. This is to be expected, and this is sometimes referred to as 'the balancing act'. Essentially, the female challenges the male, and providing he rises to the challenge, the pair may bond.

A bonded pair may be witnessed circling their bodies around each other. This is a sure sign that they are readying themselves to breed. A successful embrace will result in milt and eggs being released, which float to the surface. The eggs remain at the surface until they hatch, being guarded by watchful parents.

Rainbow snakeheads are providers of trophic eggs. Trophic eggs are meant as a source of nutrition rather than reproduction. They are supplied from mother to fry for several months post hatch. Fry can be fed on crushed flake at around 4 weeks post hatch.

The fry grow quickly and can soon attain a size of several inches within a couple of months.

Other notes

In the event of finding an escaped snakehead (often sporting dog hairs and cobwebs), our initial reaction is to panic and throw the snakehead straight back into the main aquarium. This can prove to be fatal!

We often don't know how long the snakehead has been out of the water for, and if it is exhausted, it may be too weak to surface for air and will drown.

An escaped snakehead can be placed into a bucket containing just enough aquarium water to cover its back. This way, the snakehead can easily breathe from the surface and have time to rest and recover. When sufficiently rested, the fish can be placed back into the main aquarium. An energetic snakehead that is thrashing around is a good sign that it is rested and ready!

Conclusion

Rainbow snakeheads are fabulous fish and offer a great introduction into the wonderful world of snakeheads.

When done right, a planted aquarium containing rainbow snakeheads is a sight to behold!